Monday, 16 October 2017

McCalls 7574 - Feel Me Upwards

I'd made my first version of the raglan dress M7574 just moments before A's velour, long sleeved top and immediately knew what I wanted to do with the rest of that velour. I wanted another dress just like the first, only tighter, and maybe shorter....

Then came the request from my mother in law and I cut her top out mindful that I needed to save enough for my dress. I did, and there's still a bit left over. Love a bit of cut-and-come-again fabric!

I toyed with the idea of sizing down but couldn't be bothered with tracing the pattern all over again. So I figured instead, if I leave the pockets off I can just run the side seams in until I'm happy.

I shortened the dress below the waist by 3" and then got a bit nervous about those side slits. I ended up sewing them further closed than the pattern indicates as I thought they might be scandalously high. I kind of wish I'd left them the full slit as they're not that high after all.

Similar to the two tops, I cut the fabric with the nap going upwards. Although I can see the argument against that for a dress as I wonder if it won't catch and wear out more when sitting down. Since I'm loving wearing this dress and probably will wear it until it's threadbare I hope someone will tell me when the backside gets a bit see through. My husband, however, is quite happy that this dress requires him to pat me upwards :)

I took the side seams in by about 3/4" between the bust and the hips. Not that you'd be able to tell. It's still a comfortably loose T-shirt dress. If you want a tight dress with this pattern you'll need to size down for sure.

What did make a nice difference was to do a swayback adjustment to the flat pattern before I cut the dress. I overlapped the pattern tissue by an arbitrary 1" as below:

It was a windy day and my 9 year old was operating the camera so the photos may not show it, but the back and the resultant hem line is definitely an improvement.

I think this fabric may have made the shoulder wrinkles even harder to resolve than the stable ponti of my first version. I tried edgestitching them after tinkering with the curve, but then I just shrugged (that didn't help the shoulder situation btw) and got over it.

In conversation with some sewing friends on the weekend I was asked about "dealing with velour". I confess I made no special concessions for this fabric. I used a lot of pins so the fabric didn't have much of an option to "walk" as the seams were sewn. Swapping the regular presser foot for a walking foot would be a wise move. You should probably do that when you sew velour. Me, I just shrugged and poured a glass of red.

Friday, 13 October 2017

Tops, tops, tops.

Three tops to share which have been made some time over the last couple of months and not yet made it to the blog.

First up was a top for P who, with typical last minute timing, told me he needed a green top to wear to his lacrosse club team night.

This must date back to June as it was made just before his birthday stencilled t-shirt. Same pattern: the Oliver + S School Bus T-Shirt. Same size 8 with crazy amount added to the sleeve length. This time the sleeve length addition was limited by what was leftover of the green knit fabric from my Lisette dress. The solid green knit was in the stash and it's a great combination.

Then A needed a plain black long sleeved T-shirt for her school concert performance.

I had bought about 3 metres of this velour knit at ClearIt for just a few dollars a metre with no particular ideas in mind. I still can't decide if it's a very, very dark navy or a true black, but it fit the bill either way.

I decided to give the School Bus T-Shirt a bit of the Building Block Dress Book treatment:

Firstly I went for a gathered, puff sleeve. Here's a phone photo showing how the sleeve head of the standard T-shirt sleeve was altered

My notes say I gave it about a 2&1/2" spread, but you can see that's still fairly subtle as far as puffy, gathered sleeves go. Notes also say it's a size 6 School Bus T-Shirt with size 7 body length and an extra 3" of sleeve length. Ok, I probably overdid it on the sleeve length but I hate the way my kids outgrow their sleeves so quickly.

The velour was never going to work well for a neckband so I did a facing with a cutout. I've used a thin hair elastic as the loop and A chose the button from the left-over lonely buttons pile.

A couple of years ago now I wrote a tutorial for Oliver + S about how to do this to the Women's Metro T-shirt - I still wear my two versions of that top with the back neck cutouts all the time.

I was delighted when I looked up my own tutorial to see that I had done the calculations required to do the same adjustment to the kid's School Bus pattern. Thanks past me!

Then my mother in law spied A's top and said she's like one just like that too please. Well since I had just handed her a bag full of wool and some demands for knitwear I could hardly refuse. She turned up with a well loved Carla Zampatti velour top and requested one "just like that but without such long sleeves".

I pulled out my Metro T-Shirt pattern tracings and the XL seemed to perfectly fit the armscye and body lines. It was a good few inches longer in the body and had a different neckline but that was easily rectified.

I traced the original Carla Zampatti T-shirts neckline then added the Metro T-Shirt below that. The neck is quite a bit higher at the front but is then turned over for a simple 1cm folded over hem and twin needle stitched down.

The body and sleeves are exactly as per the Metro T-Shirt. The sleeves are plenty long, even on me, but still measured a good inch shorter than the original top.

While the kids had happily told their granny I would make her a top, they'd neglected to mention the overarching rule that it would have to be modelled for a photo. Here she is, with P, being a good sport and wearing her Zampatti knock-off.

I'd already cut A's top with the velour nap running upwards (looks lusher but you have to pat upwards!) and I was surprised to find that that was the same way that the designer label velour top was cut. So Granny's top is also cut with the nap running up.

Almost immediately I'd finished cutting, I received an email alert from Marcy Tilton that they had a big stock of designer knit velour landing. The only trick to sewing velour, they said, was to always cut with the nap running down to avoid it getting snagged on chairs etc.

Meh, rules schmools.

After the School Concert was over and the requirement for a "plain" black top had been fulfilled, we got out the bling!

I've had this iron on transfer of diamantes from ClearIt for so long now, just waiting for a"plain black top" to put it on. It cost all of 50 cents and I now wish I'd bought a dozen of them. I was worried it would be hard to use, then worried it wouldn't stick to the velour. Tosh.

It was simply a matter of peeling off the paper backing, placing the transparent film with the diamantes sticky side down on the fabric, covering it with an ironing cloth, then heating the beejezus out of it. There were only two jewels in the centre of the bow that didn't stick first time and I replaced the stencil and ironed again. I'm happy to say it has already been through the wash twice (inside out) and is looking like it will last perfectly. Should have bought a hiundred of them.

This is now one of my favourite all time makes for the girl. Amazing how a simple T-shirt can look when you zoosh up the design lines, use some lush fabric and then stick some jewels on it!

If you follow me on Instagram you already know who scored the rest of that 3m cut of velour.... I'll show you the results of that next time.

Monday, 9 October 2017

McCalls 7574 - The Hairy Green Clam Dress

You know how this story goes, you need fabric A so you go shopping. While looking for fabric A, you find fabric B and then have to track down the perfect pattern to use up fabric B. Admit it, it's a familiar story, right?

I found this amazing, thick, spongey, crazy (for me) print, ponte knit at Rathdowne Fabrics and instantly wanted a raglan sleeve T-shirt dress.

The pattern I fell hard for is McCalls M7574 by Melissa Watson. It's a raglan sleeve with a high, square raglan line instead of the usual straight slope from neck to armpit. Best seen on the line drawings here:

Those sharp curves of the raglan sleeve are tricky to sew, but for me, by far the hardest part was trying to get the shoulders to fit well.

But hang on...

Before you even cut a fabric like this you have to carefully consider what part of the print is going to land where. I figured I couldn't control every print/anatomy interface but the one thing I decided to focus on was avoiding another "Map of Tassie" incident.

So, the options for what would land right on what certain Wellness Bloggers might gaggingly call my hoohaa or yoni*, came down to these three:

From Left to Right above, the options were: 1: Jewellery Box (nice, kinda apt hey), 2: Kissy Lips (uhm... no.) or 3: Hairy Green Clam (OK, this one cracked me up and has remained my pet name for the dress, but I wisely chose against it).

With the jewellery box lined up with my neatly marked pattern tissue (no, you're not seeing how I drew on it), the rest was up to fate. Thankfully I didn't get kissy lips on my tits but that was really just sheer luck.

I measured at size 14 and thought briefly about sizing down, but the pattern said "close fitting" and I believed it. I did put my big sewing girl pants on and try the tissue fitting technique outlined in the pattern (it's a Palmer Pletsch after all), only I used my traced interfacing instead of the pattern tissue.

That kind of got me nowhere as the half pattern seemed quite small and only just came to my midline, and the sleeves seemed relatively tight. How can you tissue fit a knit dress? I guess only if the dress has positive ease and I thought that "close fitting" indicated otherwise. So I went with the straight size 14, and then fiddled, and fiddled, and fiddled with those shoulder seams...

The raglan bit was fine, it was trying to get the shoulder seam to not pucker that was so difficult. I put it on inside out and sewed quite a few passes on each sleeve smoothing out and taking little bits out of the squareness of the shoulder seam each time.

It was an interesting exercise as, had you asked me at the start, I would have thought I had pretty square shoulders but evidently not. I also found that my right shoulder seemed shorter/slopier than my left. It got to the point where I would have preferred to do an hour of one arm deltoid exercises in the gym than do one more adjustment to the dress, so I called it good enough and quit.

After I finished I took the centre back seam in by almost an inch from about my bra line down to my butt. Those horizontal folds still persist a bit and I knew that really I had to buck up and start doing proper sway back adjustments to flat patterns from the start. Next time, I promise :)

The high/low shirt tail style hem is really nice and I'm pretty enamoured of that side slit :)

Once those tricky, opposing curve raglan seams are sewn the whole dress comes together pretty quickly and I'd say it's a definite winner - just be prepared to have all your misconceptions of your awesome shoulders shattered. There are lots of fitting tips for this pattern and nice diagrams of the raglan sleeve sewing on the Palmer Pletsch blog here.

Oh, and just to make it the perfect every day kind of knit dress there are pockets!

Pattern: McCalls M7574
NB: I'm pretty sure there's an error in the pattern. The front sleeve notches do not line up at all. If you start pinning from the front underarm seam you only get about an inch and a half in, and then the notches are almost a full inch apart. I pinned to a point equidistant between the mismatched notches and then started the clipping/easing of the opposing curves from there. The back sleeve notches line up perfectly. 
Size: 14
Modifications: Centre back seam reduction thorugh waist, shoulder fiddling
Fabric: Ponte knit from Rathdowne Fabrics

* For a brilliant ob/gyn's smackdown of Gwyneth and her pathologising of your vagina, please read Dr Jen Gunter's blog

Tuesday, 3 October 2017


You know the best thing about sewing? You can take pretty much any stoopid idea and run with it. And you know the best thing about kids? They're so often completely on board with it.

Cue the Leopard Leotard!*
* I know, it's probably Cheetah print not Leopard but let's not let facts stand in the way of a good alliteration, hey?!

Forgive me if I get a bit self indulgent with this blog post, but this seriously cracks me up. This shit here is exactly why I make stuff.

So, a cheetah print skinsuit needs a back story, you say? Ok, here goes:

This year, A has started doing gymnastics one night a week after school. At the end of each term they have a dress-up theme for the last class of the term. I've made her two leotards so far (here and here), but haven't been up to speed on the last week of term thing. At least not until this term.

So there we were, busy as all get out, nearing the end of the school term and I spotted the poster announcing a "Wild Animal" theme for the end of term....

That dangerous little light in the back of brain flicked on. I had the fabric. I had at least a day or two spare. This could be done, and damn if it wouldn't be hilariously cute. OK, there's no stopping me now.

First task was convincing P, who had technically been the one to spot, and grab, this fabric remnant from Nick Ciancio's sewing machine repair shop, to let his little sister have it. His plans for it, I kid you not, had been a skin tight, one sleeved, off the shoulder top. As much as I would love to indulge his Bowie-esque fashion sense I did convince him to wait until he was invited to a George Of The Jungle themed birthday party. That had yet to happen. The fabric was going to be A's....

The pattern choice was a no brainer. It had to be Jalie 3135, the full skinsuit with hood version. I'd previously made a short sleeve, short leg, collared version for P as swimwear and I love the fit and cut of the pattern. For A, I traced her size, J, and added 1" in torso length.

I wish I'd added a bit of sleeve length, but since she immediately put it on and refused to take it off I never did get to hem the sleeves and legs anyway. They're a bit short even without hems, but heck it's a costume leotard.

The face mask dates back to when P dressed as a cheetah to go to the theatre.

From the oddly shaped remnant of fabric I managed to cut everything with just a single bit of piecing of the centre hood panel and the zipper shield. The leftover scraps would have barely covered an A4 page. For just the price of an invisible zip it was a very satisfying exercise.

And, did I say already how much it makes me laugh?...

The same evening that A had her final gymnastics class of the term, P had his school concert performance. We had to rush home from gymnastics, eat dinner, get changed and race off to the school concert. Only A didn't want to get changed. She wanted to stay in her big cat skinsuit. Sure, fine by me. (pick your battles parents, pick your battles)

But what we didn't count on was that there were at least two school classes who were performing that night with a jungle animal theme, and as soon as we arrived teachers descended on A and tried to whisk her backstage to prepare. On no less than three separate occasions she was steered towards the backstage area and we had to explain, numerous times, that she was an audience member....

....who just happened to be wearing a cheetah skinsuit. The teachers smiled. They got it.


Thursday, 28 September 2017

Buttoned Up Button Down Shirt

Ever since I've been officially contributing to the Oliver + S blog, Liesl has suspected I may have some hidden cameras installed in her studio. Too often to count it has happened that I've been working on something only to email Liesl to ask if she wants me to write it up as tutorial for the blog. And the answer has come back along the lines of  "um, no, 'cause that's exactly the kind of pattern I'm currently developing. Are you spying on me again?".  I could rattle off many examples and it's become quite funny - especially 'cause I'm never on trend or ahead of any idea in the sewing world. Maybe I really do have cameras planted ;)

So when she politely declined my offer to share how I'd split the Sketchbook shirt collar to make it into a two part collar and collar stand, I was excited... Was there a new kid's shirt pattern in the works? Yep!!

The Buttoned-Up Button Down Shirt is the ultimate shirt pattern for kids with all those little quibbles we'd had about the Sketchbook Shirt resolved. That one has the simple to sew but less perfect single piece collar while this one has a very crisp two piece collar. That one had a super simple style of sleeve placket, this one has a perfect tower placket. And where the Sketchbook is a boxy, short and more casual cut, this one has the longer silhouette of a shirt designed for being tucked in to trousers.

I still think the Sketchbook pattern is a great pattern to cut your teeth on when sewing a shirt for a kid, and the shorts are just fabulous. Where this pattern comes in to play is where you want a more formal, classic shirt and when you're feeling like a bit more of an involved sewing experience.


This shirt was sewn for the pattern test. P is 9 years old and measured a size 8 in all circumference measurements but a little over the next size up in height. I've sewn the size 8, adding 1" in length to the shirt and 1" in length to the sleeves.

Of course it needs to be said that my son has extraordinarily long arms for his age/height/species and on most normal children you wouldn't need extra sleeve length. I think I could have easily added a second inch to these sleeves. They look a bit short in these pictures and three months later they're probably unwearably short unless rolled up. As a reference I would add as much as 3 to 4 inches in length to the sleeves of the School Bus or Field Trip t-shirt patterns, so this shirt sleeve length seems to be well proprtioned, bordering on generous, for the pattern size.


This great shirting cotton was bought on the same rummage through Phillips Shirts fabric store back in mid 2016 when I bought my Hermes-esque fabric.

When we were out at my parent's place and P started playing chess with my dad I insisted he put his "chess shirt" on and I snapped a few pictures of the shirt in action! To keep the shirt from looking too dressy I'd edgestitched and topstitched everywhere using a denim-blue thread that matched the rooks on the shirt. The buttonholes are all blue as well except for the very bottom one on the front which is white. I always feel so clever when I remember to do one contrasting buttonhole :)

The instructions for the two piece collar, the cuffs and the sleeve plackets are top notch. No handsewing required and such a neat, crisp collar result. The more formal View A has no topstitching and a single open chest pocket, whereas this View B version has two breast pockets with tidy, hidden buttons on the undersides of the flaps.

To attest to the power of wearing a proper chess shirt while playing chess, as I was snapping away he managed to put his grandpa into check....

So that's my week of shirts on the blog. There's been quite a bit more sewn since these, so I need to do more catching up around here. I have a pretty hilarious garment to share with you next week so stay tuned!

Wednesday, 27 September 2017

Recital Shirt - View A

This shirt wasn't commissioned like the View B pattern test that I blogged about yesterday. But there I was, with a free evening and piles of fabric and lovely patterns looking at me and suddenly I found myself in a cutting frenzy.

I had some perfect shirting fabric picked up a year earlier at a Phillips Shirts fabric sale and I knew it would suit the View A of the Recital Shirt very nicely. And well, that was already printed, traced off and sewn through once...

View A differs from View B in that the front pleats are absent, so the princess seams are more apparent. Also the tuxedo winged collar is replaced with a regular mandarin collar and the option of putting in a ruffle. Otherwise the sleeves and back are the same.

This shirting cotton is quite narrow and I had bought an arbitrary two metres (or maybe two and a half from memory) with no plans for what to do with it. It was a very tight squeeze to get the shirt cut out and so there was no fun to be had trying to perfectly pattern match the back yoke or get tricky in any way like that.

But after my shifty, squirrely linen it was an utter delight to sew this perfect shirting cotton. I don't have a great close up photo of the pattern but it is ropes, hooks and pulleys and has a very Hermes vibe. I thought with the Hermes thing going on and the lightness of the cotton, the ruffle collar, while not usually my style, would be fun to add.

I like it open like this, but I have to confess that if I button it up the look is a bit too much like an old fashioned lamb chop for me. Does anyone still use those frilly paper things on the end of lamb cutlets or does that only exist in the lexicon of cartooning nowadays?

I think I may be about to show off the wrong sleeve placket... The other one, the one I didn't photograph, has a freakishly lucky bit of pattern matching where the placket is a perfect continuation of the pattern on the sleeve. You'll just have to take my word for it. Or you could invite me out to a fancy lamb restaurant and I'll wear my shirt and show you.

It wasn't until I was about to start cutting that it dawned on me that a vertical stripe pattern and the curved princess seams might make for a weird looking shirt. But I think it still works. In fact a finer stripe could look really cool with the change in direction of the fabric along that princess seam.

I've been quite generous in the size I chose here (straight size 12). There's a few months between taking my measurements for the first pattern test and getting this second version photographed and I've been on a bit of an eat-less-muffins regime. It would be an interesting exercise to size down and really fit this shirt using a fabric with a bit of stretch. But then I don't wear shirts much at all and certainly wouldn't have use for an ultra-fitted shirt. So, it would be an interesting exercise in fitting, but not one that I care to be bothered with right now.

I've got one more shirt to share with you tomorrow and then I'm drumming my fingers waiting for the new Liesl + Co patterns to arrive as I keep finding and buying great fabrics for making Flipper a shirt. I guess it will be his turn next.

Tuesday, 26 September 2017

Recital Shirt - View B

I was delighted to have been asked by Liesl + Co to help pattern test their new patterns back in May and immediately said yes. Then I set to trying to find how I could affordably get 36" digital patterns printed....

For the record my local copy shop franchisee quoted $98 + GST for a job that Creffield did for about $14 and with such expert service and understanding of the importance of not scaling etc that I was blown away and will sing their praises very loudly. Add in that they did it while I waited, and they have a coffee machine, and they have a coffee table covered in cycling magazines (possibly only this West Melbourne store, but hey). Heaven!

Anyway I digress. Oliver + S pattern testing. YES PLEASE!

The Recital Shirt is one of the latest offerings from Liesl + Co and it's a classic button up shirt with a bit of a twist. It has princess seams at the front allowing for easy custom fitting and comes in three different cup sizes: A/B, C and D

With no measurable difference between my upper bust measurement and my full bust measurement (thanks, I guess, to lots of push ups and back exercises and no boobs), I was in the  A/B pattern camp. And my measurement put me in the size 12.

Since I was pattern testing I made no alterations to the pattern before cutting and sewing. But, you know, I've worn this quite a few times since making it (without letting anyone know it was me-made or an as yet unreleased pattern) and I don't think there's anything I would change.

The back has some lovely darts that give it a nice shape, and while my size 12 is comfortably loose it doesn't look like I borrowed my husband's shirt.

Forgive my awkward modelling, these were the fit photos for Liesl and I just can't be bothered taking any more of me prancing around in someplace more interesting. Actually, this is pretty much how I photograph everything these days, so who am I kidding...

The View B has some wonderful deep(ish) pleats at the front giving it a bit of a tuxedo shirt vibe. My fabric was some $3/m linen from Eliza that I pulled from the stash and while I love it for a shirt it was very shifty and my pleat sewing is seriously lacking in precision. My Recital Shirt is more Jazz Improvisation than Symphony Orchestra but that's cool with me.

And it obviously wrinkles like a mother. :)

Hanging on a coat hanger after being ironed it looks really great, and the insides are lovely and neat too.

The method of attaching the collar was one I hadn't seen before and I was really impressed with how it turned out. Especially for the lack of any hand sewing! The same technique is used for the cuffs and once I'd got my head around how it was done it was easy.

The other new to me technique was a tower placket for the sleeve cuffs. Again, very well explained in instructions and diagrams. The sleeve length on Liesl + Co patterns is a delight for me and my arms which never seem sufficiently covered by ready to wear shirts.

The other cool thing is that the pieces of this shirt can be mixed and matched with the Liesl + Co Classic Shirt. So, if you've already done all the work on fitting that one around the bust, or just prefer the plain, unseamed front, but you like the back darts of the Recital Shirt, you can have both!

I liked this one so well that as soon as I found a bit of extra sewing time I cut another one to make View A. I'll show you that one tomorrow....

Saturday, 23 September 2017

The Littlest Production Animal - Genoa Tote in competition

For a few years now I've decided that visiting the Royal Show with children is much more entertaining if you enter something in competition. That way you have to walk right past all the rides and junk food stands to go see mummy's whatever-it-was-that-she-entered. Of course once you're in the Art, Craft and Cookery area the kids end up making pom poms or flower crowns and being amazed by all the decorated cakes, art, textiles, toys, hats, woodwork..... It's great.

Previously I've entered something that was already made and seemed to fit a category, but this year I didn't have anything in mind. At least not until I saw there was a competition class just for tote bags, called "amusingly" Totes Amazing! competition class.

Then, when I saw on Instagram that both Jane and Nicole were going to enter, and both were planning to use the great Genoa Tote pattern by BloglessAnna I had my answer.

I threw my hat in the ring with another Genoa Tote, and in doing so helped to fuel the great Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria Genoa Tote-Off of 2017 or #rasvgenoatoteoff2017

Being a bit canny, I think, to what floats the boat of agricultural type people I thought I'd give my Genoa Tote a bit of a production animal theme. So I'm celebrating that humble little food producer, the honey bee.

I have a Japanese embroidery magazine (Stitch Idees Vol 7) that has sashiko honeycomb stitching on a tote bag and I've always really liked it. Time to make one! That bag has dark brown stitching on a yellow background - a bit bright for me and not anything that I had to hand...

I rummaged in the stash and found this remnant of rust brown denim (previously made into Art Museum trousers) and wouldn't you know it, it was a perfect match for the leather straps that Anna had kindly gifted me when she first released the pattern.

In an extra lucky moment I had just the right amount for a medium sized Genoa Tote. I ruled up my honeycomb and set to stitching...

I decided I needed a honeycomb patterned fabric for the lining and found a great cotton drill at Spotlight.

The honeycomb pattern is in a light bronze/gold metallic print and in another moment of it's-amazing-how-my-stash-can-always-come-to-the-rescue, I found I had just the right amount leftover of a fine, gold cotton voile that I had used to line a dodgy leather bag back here.

Damn, and if it didn't match the printed lining fabric perfectly too! Feeling lucky.

My previous "successes" (we don't mention the number of entrants in a category now, do we?) at the show in the textile competitions (first place for this, and for this) meant that I had to enter the Open Category. While Jane and Nic would battle it out with their totes in the Novice Category.

A bit of self applied pressure had me line my pocket so that there are no exposed seams on the inside of the pocket. The cotton I used is so light, that I interfaced one pocket piece and then lined with non interfaced and it worked perfectly. I also fully enclosed the tab for the key clip so there's no peek of an unfinished side. Easy changes to the pattern that are entirely unnecessary unless you think you are entering into competition with "true ladies of craft" (add your own crashing thunder background noise when you read that).

Of course I may have to admit I have turned, or at least, am turning, into one of those such ladies as we visited the show today to learn my Genoa Tote won first place. :) Congratulations also to Nic and Jane on their beautiful entries and rightly deserved ribbons. I think these bags all need to go out for post show drinks after we collect them!

Much to their delight, the kids entered for the first time and took out a second place in the Anzac Biscuits and a Commendation for some Choc Chip Cookies. We're all feeling pretty clever.

Pattern: Genoa Tote by BloglessAnna
Size: Medium
Notions: Leather straps, rivets and key clip all from BloglessAnna via PatternFantastique. Embroidery thread. Metal zip from my stash.
Fabrics: Stashed denim, Cotton drill lining from Spotlight. Stashed cotton for pocket/key clip
Modifications: Embroidery and lined the pocket and key clip tab