Thursday, 25 February 2021

Jalie Swimmers & Boardshorts

Usually, at this time of year I'm writing blogposts about swimwear that I've sewn for summer holidays.

There was a Christmas dummy spit about everything made by me being horrible, and my mother kindly took A to a shop (shock horror) to buy some swimwear. (I think I had another G&T and was equally offended and didn't care). Everything still kinda fitted the big kid, and I just made one extra pair of boardshorts because he nicely asked for them. (Jalie 2678, same size as these and these)

But then A decided to try out for the school swim team and got in...

Having chosen her own swimmers in "the shop" at Christmas time, she was lacking a one piece that was suitable for racing. I asked, tentatively, if I might be allowed to make a pair of school-swim-team-swimmers. I got the OK to proceed.

I used my favourite sporty swimsuit pattern, Jalie 3134. I've made it a few times before (here, here and here) and always liked it.

The colours were chosen to match the school uniform and the amount of each was purely due to how much I had! Yet it came out looking almost exactly like the sports polo part of the uniform.

I made a straight size P with no alterations. The yellow piping is technically a cotton lycra t-shirt knit rather than a lycra swimsuit knit, but it was the only bright yellow I had.

The district swimming carnival is tomorrow. But this week she also had Water Safety program at the beach...

When I'd been rummaging through the swimwear lycra fabric stash she spotted a black pineapple print fabric and said she liked it. Given the success of this swimsuit I was granted permission to sew her a second one piece.

This time I chose Jalie 3350, View B, also straight size P

This is the cutest little swimsuit, and I really want one for me. I think I've said that every time I've sewn this pattern (here and twice here. )

There's enough pineapple lycra leftover to make it happen.

I tried to take some video of the elastic stitching technique, but my sewing machine's LED light and the video weren't playing nicely and the strobing effect was dreadful.

Here's a couple of still images:

The elastic is first zig zag stitched to the edge of the fabric with the stitch going just off the edge of the fabric:

Then it's turned to the inside and zig zag stitched again:

I've previously tried a twin needle, and although I'm a huge fan of twine needle hems for knit garments in general. I think for swimmers, the humble zig zag looks, and works, the best.

Most of the construction is done on the overlocker. Where I use the sewing machine I confess to not paying much attention to needle type. I just start stitching and only change things if there's skipping or problems. Every machine is different, so there's no magic combination that will always work. Just try it. There's so little fabric used that it's easy to experiment.

He wears: Jalie 2678, size 0 - note pattern error mentioned here, microfleece polyester from Spotlight
She wears; Jalie 3134, size P. Stashed fabrics
and Jalie 3350, View B, size P in swimsuit lycra from Fabric Deluxe

Monday, 22 February 2021

New Look 6444 Birthday Jumpsuit

 For A's birthday this year she had put in a request for a dress, with very definite specifications....

I always like to make a surprise outfit, so I figured I'd need to sew something else alongside that dress.

I'd bought this lightweight seersucker-like fabric, probably a rayon, at Spotlight on their $2/m table and stashed it. I'm sure she'd seen it at the time, but presumably forgotten about it.

She'd also seen the pattern: New Look 6444 and had approved of it.

Based on her measurements I went with the straight size 12. Previously I'd have added length but her torso length seems to now match her pattern size. It's just her limbs that are probably still closer to a size 10. 

But with the ankles having an elastic cuff it didn't look like it would matter if the leg length was overly generous. 

The fit is really nice and I can see that the bottom half would make a good pair of pants on its own. Maybe even with wide leg leaving the ankles uncuffed.

The bottom half on its own would also be a much quicker sew. In contrast, the top part was quite time consuming: a narrow rolled hem all the way around that ruffle and then bias bound armscyes and bias casing for the waist elastic. Some neat finishing but pretty involved sewing.

She's not been entirely enthusiastic about home sewn clothes lately, and so I was quite amused when she went to open this present. She'd decided that of the two presents on the table left to unwrap, one was from us and the other from her granny. Since granny often gives her clothes she decided the "squishy" package must be from granny...

She opened it and was delighted, gushing about how great it was and how clever granny was to have chosen it for her. Her brother started sniggering as he pointed out the label he'd chosen for me to sew into it: One of the KATM Sweary Sewist labels that read "Hand-Fucking-Made" :)

Does matching your brick wall backdrop to your hair work? not really. :)

Pattern: New Look 6444
Size: 12
Modifications: none
Fabric: cheap rayon seersucker from Spotty

Wednesday, 3 February 2021

BASIC_Shirt - knitted T-shirt

This one is jumping the blogging queue as I finished it just the other day and have worn it all day today, and I LOVE it!!

This is the first garment I've knitted for myself and there were a few false starts. I'm glad I went back and started over, as I'd had yarn joins dead centre front and some pretty ordinary shoulder seams.

When I first ripped it all out I thought that would be the end of it for a while, but I was itching to start it again as I really wanted to wear it.

I'm so happy with how it feels to wear. It simply feels like not wearing anything!

The yarn is Scheepjes Bamboo Soft premium blend in black (50g = 150m), of which I bought 5 balls from Bellemae Yarns

The knitting pattern is the BASIC_Shirt by Susanne Mueller / Paula Strickt which I bought through Ravelry, along with her crochet raffia hat and a crochet bag pattern.

I made a size M, the second of 5 sizes. In ripping it back and starting over I forget now if I did add any length to the body. I suspect I lost count of the rows and went for the measured length as per the pattern. It's intended to be boxy and somewhat cropped and it's perfect as is.  

The shoulder seams were a bit tricky and my tension isn't perfect. But they're not too loopy or weird.

Adding the ribbing cuffs by picking up stitches with a crochet hook and then knitting into the slipped crochet stitches was a new thing to try. I think I got it fairly neat.

The T-shirt reminds me a lot of the Liesl & Co Bento Tee, in a knitted version. It's a great, easy to wear tee and I could easily have another in a different colour...

At the end I weighed my leftover yarn and there was 132g leftover. Did I really only use three of the five balls? At $7/ball I could knit a dozen of these t-shirts if they use less than 500m of yarn!

Details: Knitting!!
Yarn: Scheepjes bamboo soft, requires 3x50g
Needles: 3.5mm and 4.5mm as per pattern instructions

Thursday, 31 December 2020

Ottobre kiddo

To close out the year, some Ottobre tween-boy sewing:

I bought just a couple of Ottobre magazines over five years ago and haven't sewn that much from them, but for boys this size there's almost nowhere else to turn.

This outfit is Ottobre 1/2014 patterns 36 and 37 size 158. I think I added an extra inch and a half of sleeve length but didn't need to. Still, I'm excited that his arms won't outgrow this top in a single season.

The V neck technique wasn't the way I would have chosen to do it, and I think there's more room for making a mess of it compared to my usual technique. But, with some rain needle topstitching it looks sharp enough.

The jeans are great. They're designed for stretch fabric, have some cool details and look comfy and totally legit as streetwear.

I didn't get a picture of it, but on the yoke there's a couple of tabs, about belt loop width that overlap over the centre back seam and close with two snaps. Kind of like a malpositioned hammer loop on carpenter's pants. Pointless, but cool.

It's also hard to see, but while most of the topstitching is grey, there are a few lime green highlights here and there.

The fabric is a lightweight, stretch denim that I had in the stash. It feels about the weight of a sturdy quilting cotton. Compared to heavier, rigid denim jeans that I've made him in the past these ones are getting lots of wear.

The t-shirt was also made from stash fabrics. It's a fun t-shirt pattern for using up smaller cuts or remnants.

The sleeve pocket and the chest tab were intended to be sewn in a woven cotton. Instead, I chose to fuse some lightweight interfacing to the same cotton lycra I was using for the neckband and cuffs.

The skinny jeans style freaked him out a bit at first, as he's used to the fullness of cargo pants. Still, he's wearing both garments a lot and I'm just grateful that Ottobre make these patterns right up to 170cm size.

And I'm enormously grateful that he wears what I make, and makes it look damn good!

Wednesday, 30 December 2020

After School Pants and Jalie Jeans

Ages ago I bought a remnant of striped See You at Six denim from Maaidesign. Recently, A has a big thing for peach/apricot colours so I pulled this fabric, with its metallic peach stripe out and she loved it.

Crazy, stripey pants time!

The pattern is the Oliver + S After School pants. With my 1m of fabric I had just enough after some clever planning and very careful cutting.

The fabric has a diagonal stripe, so I cut the side panels on the bias to achieve the vertical stripes. It was a design choice but was also the only way the pattern pieces could fit on the fabric.

They're a size 12, and on a hunch I added probably an inch and a half to the front and back rises. The fit is perfect!

The cute little pocket frills are a lightweight cotton batiste.

Finally, a pair of pants that haven't been photographed, other than this phone picture of a butt:

Another pair of Jalie Eléonore pull on jeans with the same rise increase as the white ones from a few months back.

Also in a 1m remnant of fabric. This was a heavy knit that was destashed from Renae on Instagram and I thought would make cool kid jeans.

Monday, 28 December 2020

Gifts, learning to knit and little bits to close out the year

I still have a couple of sewn garments to post to the blog before the year is out, but I thought I'd round up some little bits'n'bobs first.

A friend had a baby and I couldn't resist making a Brindle and Twig onesie from a remnant of Spotlight cotton/lycra

A little "Ta-Da" label from Kylie and the Machine seemed perfect for the side seam.

During the year I learned to knit. The first few things I made were squares to test stitches and were ripped out.

The main plan was to knit a beanie for our builder. I made a "muslin" first and it was perfect for P. The final version was a better adult size and with less mistakes.

First I practiced some more and made this beanie for A.

When I'm back home and not posting from my phone I'll try and remember to come back and add pattern credits and links.

One pattern I won't be recommending was these crochet lace mitts.

The pattern was in a book I was gifted when I first learnt to crochet. It contains no diagrams or sketches, so unless you'd made gloves before, it was hard to imagine how they'd come together.

And the pattern was riddled with errors! Grrrr.
A search on Ravelry found comments about the errors and links to an online errata page - but even that had a mistake. Making the first one was such an ordeal that I almost convinced my daughter that a Michael Jackson style single glove would do.
Anyway, they're finished, they're cute, and they'll probably never get worn.

When I bought a knitting book I also bought a single skein of the most beautiful yarn (link to come). It's the most exquisite, soft, squishy fine yarn in a lovely salmon pink. K tried a few things with it, but finally settled on this simple triangular scarf.

I'm pretty sure I followed the border instructions incorrectly, but it's cute.

The only project I'd actually intended to make during the year in the crappy rental, was this swan.

It's from the Crochet Trophy Heads book and A and I had agreed it would be great on her bedroom wall.

P made a little elastic and Kraft-Tex wallet for his teacher...

And A had me make a Genoa Tote for her teacher with Harry Potter lining fabric.

The outer fabric is a coated stretch bengaline on the $2/m table at Spotlight and it has a great faux leather look and feel, but a stretch fabric is really not a suitable choice and it took a lot of interfacing to make it work.

Finally, I found myself with one rostered day off that coincided with Flipper having a rare day at an office (that isn't also our house) so time to make him a gift.

I had some thickish brown leather that was gifted to me, so I made a mouse pad. It's a leather base, a smaller leather layer, a same size smaller wool Melton pad layer, then a top leather layer.

They're all glued together then I saddle stitched around the edge by hand and burnished the edges.

It's pretty amateurish leather work but it was fun to make and it passes the stand back and squint and it looks alright test.

I've taken some knitting away with me as I'm trying to make a simple cotton t-shirt, but I keep making mistakes and ripping back more than I've knit. Might be finished by next summer.

If not, I've got plenty of black cotton to make a native Australian version of that swan!

Monday, 21 December 2020

New Liesl + Co Patterns

Sometime earlier this year (who knows what time means anymore and this year seems like 5 years rolled into one) I tested a couple of patterns for Liesl + Co.

First up was the Easton Cowl Neck Tee - A simple long, or short, sleeved t-shirt, but with a lovely draping front cowl neck. there are options to finish the back neck with a wider facing, or a narrow bias strip. Whichever floats your boat.

I was down for testing view B, the short sleeved, bas finished option. I chose a fabric that suited the pattern, but that I wasn't hugely fond of, which seems the smartest if you're genuinely testing a pattern (if you're trying to seek blogging fame and fortune by getting invited on pattern tours that's a different matter entirely, go ahead, cut your liberty jersey. Whatevs)

Being in strict lockdown, and living in a pretty shabby rental the fit photographs were in front of a sheet in the back yard. But the top is good.

This was my size as per measurements with B cup size and no alterations.

The fabric was remnant that was gifted to me and it's perfect for this top, and if I had an office-y job that required fancy t-shirts I'd have perfect workwear attire right here.

More to my taste, I immediately jumped in and made view A in a bamboo jersey from my stash.
This one has been worn a LOT.

The second pattern I tested wasn't one that immediately jumped out at me (but the ones I missed testing - boy do I love them, check out the Noord Sweatshirt and Yanaka Jacket), yet once I'd sewn it I loved it. I wear this shirt LOTS and LOTS.

At first I thought it was a bit "older" in it's styling (ha! Who am I if not "older" anyway), but I have really enjoyed wearing my Fitzroy Blouse and yes, I'm sure my mum will want a version too. But twinning with your mum is still cute, no?

This time I cut straight into some double gauze I had in my stash. The fabric came from Draper's Fabrics and I don't think I'd had anything particular in mind when I bought it. It seemed perfect for this shirt.

I trusted Liesl and jumped straight in to view A, in my standard size, cup size and no alterations.

the back is fairly standard shirt with a nice box pleat. the front has the curious shawl collar which is so much nicer to wear than I'd imagined from the lione drawing.

Then the views differ in the cuff treatment. view A has lots of pintucks to give a shirred cuff effect, whereas view B has a more straight up button cuff. I've flipped some of my double gauze out at the cuffs here, not sure what that's meant to show, but there you are.

I even had the perfect leftover slightly purple/blue buttons from Buttonmania from when I made my purple shirt. I've been wearing this shirt such a lot that I could definitely see myself making another.

I even tried getting some 'better" photos while wearing it in our new house (that's my east facing bedroom wall behind me)...

I like to sew (and collect) the paper patterns, so while I have a tester's copy of these two patterns in digital form, I'll be putting in my order to buy all four of the new patterns and have them arrive in the happy mail!