Birthday suit!

I'm going to preface this blog post by saying I do not take on commissions. I don't sew garments for sale and nobody, at least nobody I know, could pay me enough to sew something I didn't want to sew.

But give me an idea that I am interested in and I will absolutely run with it!

A little friend was having her birthday soon, and as she was about to turn 8 she had found a sudden fondness for a tiny size 18-24months blazer. Kids are hilarious like that, right? They flatly refuse to wear something until the sleeves only come to their elbows and their bellies are hanging out the bottom and then it's instantly their bestest, bestest piece of clothing.

I've always sewn something for this particular kid's birthday anyway, and my mission this year, should I choose to accept it, was to recreate this little blazer:

I'd never sewn a blazer before and it's the one pattern that so many of us have been waiting for Oliver + S to release the perfect pattern for (hint hint Liesl!). So, all I knew about sewing a blazer was that I didn't have a trusty pattern. But I knew I would have Liesl to talk me through it anyway, because I'd be using every trick I'd learned from all those other patterns to bring this one to fruition.

Begin the pattern search! The closest match ended up being Burda 9724, an out of print pattern that I managed to find. It's sized from 7-12 years and I was nervous that the size 7 might still be a bit big. To settle my nerves (sarcasm font) I purchased the two sizes of this Vogue pattern thinking the bodice block from that might be the right fit and I could change the hem length and overly puffed sleeves.

I need not have worried, as while my bigger, taller but younger kid measured exactly as per the size 7 measurements, the muslin I made was too small for her. It fit perfectly on the intended recipient and so I sent her mum off to shop for fabric.

She was struggling to find what she wanted on our side of the city when I remembered she may not know about Eliza's, and there she found this eggplant purple, wool tweed that has a lovely metallic gold weave. - and the perfect matching satin lining.

The only fit adjustment made to the pattern was to add 3cm of length at the hem. The rest of the fit was perfect, but it is quite a cropped jacket as illustrated on the pattern cover and it seemed that the un-hemmed length of the muslin was just right. Note to self: for my own daughter I would need to add considerable length mid torso as well as at the hem.

The other changes were to make sure this jacket matched the original. The Burda pattern has font pocket flaps, but no pockets. Easily fixed! The welt pockets from the Oliver + S Art Museum Vest (size 8 'cause it was already traced) fit perfectly under those flaps.

The other change was to add a kick pleat at the back. Here I referenced a Vogue dress pattern that had a kick pleat, but I still managed to muff up the lining part. I'd invented my own depth and width of kick pleat and so I didn't really know how, or by how much, I should trim the lining. Add in that the lining had some vertical ease which would overhang the hem, and some pleats centre back for extra ease of movement, and trying to make my kick pleat lining neat was a struggle. It's OK but it's not really how it should be.

The penultimate pattern alteration was a faux opening at the sleeve. Here I used a similar kick pleat shape but then sewed the pleat closed - a bit like a faux fly on a pair of kid's trousers. That way the sleeve lining could just be straight and attach at the sleeve hem in a regular circular fashion.

For the perfect buttons we took a trip out to Buttonmania where we found these divine "vegetable ivory" buttons. The centre purple is exactly the same shade as the lining, only matte, with a lovely almost suede texture. The periphery is like a shiny wood. There were multiple sizes available and so we chose a slightly smaller size for the sleeves. The very last pattern alteration was simply to use three front buttons rather than the two shown on the pattern

To make the jacket took barely 1m of fabric and my friend had over purchased by getting 1.5m - I guess at the Eliza price of $6/metre it was hardly going to break the bank to overbuy.

Of course I couldn't resist making a quick skirt to turn the jacket into a suit! There's something quite hilarious about an 8 year old in a tweed suit.

The obvious pattern choice was the Oliver + S Music Class Skirt. It's a gorgeous little straight skirt with these sweet kick pleats at the side. I knew the wool tweed was behaving very nicely when ironed and would co-operate just fine with the pleats.

To prevent the skirt being too scratchy, I cut a lining. The lining was cut for the front and back skirt panels and the side panels, all shortened to just below where the pockets end and the pleats start. I also split the waistband so that the inner waistband was the lining rather than the wool.

I sewed a wee tab out of lining and slipped it into one of the skirt side panel seams and then sewed the spare jacket button onto that. It's stitched to the lining as well so it lays flat and doesn't flop around, so the tab is probably redundant, but I thought it seemed a bit of a professional touch ;)

I also used one of my Kylie and the Machine labels that says: Made with Love and Swear Words. There weren't any swear words as it was a really enjoyable sewing experience but that's the kind of thing that was bound to amuse my little jacket wearing friend.

We delivered it on the afternoon of her birthday and she put it straight on over her school polo and modelled it for me - the only payment I ever insist on being a few photographs!

If you can track down the pattern I highly recommend it. The instructions are Burda brief, but it's very nicely drafted and is a lovely sew. I'll be keen to make one for A soon as I think worn with jeans it will be a super cute and very useful little jacket.

Details:
Pattern: Jacket: Burda 9724
Skirt: Oliver + S Music Class
Modifications: Jacket: added welt pockets from Oliver + S Art Museum Vest, lengthened at hem by 3cm, added kick pleat, added sleeve pleats, added one extra front button
Skirt: added lining and split waistband to give lining finish against the skin.
Size: Both size 7
Fabric: Metallic tweed from Eliza, fabric content is always a mystery but it behaved and smelled like wool when pressed. Satin lining.
Notions: Interfacing, thread. Buttons from Buttonmania

Music Class Blouse

I really am trying to sew through some of my long stashed fabrics this year, and when A chose the purple Japanese lawn for her friend's skirt, I asked her if she'd like a little blouse made out of the rest of it. I got the nod, and I was off...

Please forgive the wrinkles, I do own an iron, but this had been worn all day and was about to go in the wash and so I snapped a few pictures first.

The pattern is the Music Class Blouse by Oliver + S, truly one of the cutest girl's shirt patterns. There are lovely little pintucks under the yoke front and back, and a really sweet one piece Peter Pan collar.

Ready for a flashback?

The last time I made the short sleeved version of the blouse, it was also in a Japanese lawn from Spotlight, and A had just mastered her "death stare". You might like to look away from the computer screen if you're feeling vulnerable, it can be quite affronting...

...

Just for laughs, let's hang around in the past for a bit longer... I made the long sleeved view B version in flannel first, back in the winter of 2012. She would have been about 15 months old...

and then the following year, another winter long sleeved flannel version...

Can you guess I'm a big fan of the pattern? The way the long sleeve placket is done is very simple and is a great introduction to a sleeve placket finish, but if you wanted a proper tower placket then that's now a free tutorial on the Oliver + S website. It would be super easy to mix and match elements of this shirt with the more classic Buttoned-Up Button Down shirt.

And since she has suddenly decided it's cool to wear shirts I might get to update the flannel winter wardrobe again this year. - She has been wearing this old shirt of P's along with her jeggings and rocking a very 90's grunge vibe lately. A new flannel shirt might just be the thing!

Also, throwing out a special Happy Birthday callout to the Oliver + S pattern company who have just turned 10 years old. As you can see, I've been using their patterns over and over for many years and I'm an unabashed disciple of the Oliver + S way. This pattern is no longer available in paper format, but they're having a monster sale of their paper patterns at the moment so check them out, and throw this one in your digital download box as it's a ripper!

Details:
Pattern: Music Class Blouse and Skirt by Oliver + S, view A
Size: Straight size 7 - should have added a little body length for that long torso
Fabric: Japanese lawn from Spotlight, long time tashed

Made last night - Worn today.

When P was invited to a "Disco Diva" themed party at a kid's function centre, he came to me with his "working idea for an outfit".

I love that he thought he needed an outfit, I love that he trusted I could make whatever he thought up, and his idea itself?... Mum, said he, I need (not want, but need) an all-over white suit with gold lacy stuff as another layer over the top. See through like, so the white shows....

As much as I would LOVE to make another jumpsuit I talked him down to a pair of pants....

I went for my favourite Oliver + S pattern, the Nature Walk pants. He's been wearing two pairs as school shorts, so I knew they were a great fit, and it was a simple matter of redrafting them to be a bit longer and quite flared.

Then we got the paint out. (and if that doesn't sound exciting then you don't know me and my kids!)

While P was at school his little sister and I practised some stamps on fabric using a small rubber stamp we'd purchased.

That seemed to work just fine, but then when P went to stamp his pants the little stamps just weren't cutting it. I cut a sponge into a bigger star and we stamped over the top of the little ones (they're still very visible on one leg, but this is dress-ups and I had to just let that go and not fuss)

With an old skivvie and a bit of "bling" from the party shop down the street, we were ready.

More photos of P getting ready to get down!
(and you might not believe it but he can be so painfully shy sometimes that at the party he held onto my hand for about half an hour before eventually getting into it and getting his groove on)

 

 

There was no way that A was going to be left out when it came to fabric painting. She was merrily spreading fabric paint all over the kitchen bench when she and I both realised the paint dauber thing we were using to put paint onto the star stencil made a perfect circle stamp in it's own right.

Cue Flashback Skinny T:

When a 3 year old expresses an interest in some handmade clothing you don't wait, you make it fast! (although that's still no guarantee they'll wear it, right?). I suggested grey (duh) fabric she suggested purple (double duh) paint. Everybody was happy.

I used a ruler to mark out spots 5cm apart and she dabbed at each spot. (with a little help from me cause I couldn't help myself). There was a bit of purple ribbing in the stash for the collars and cuffs, and that pattern almost sews itself up after making so many.

I made a size 3 with about 1.5cm added length. The sleeves were cut to the full length but then I made cuffs the same width as the neckband so that adds a little sleeve length. She was delighted to find it in her room this morning and chose the Music Class skirt and love hearts tights to create her ensemble for the day!

Photo shoots seem to be ending with a love-in these days. I'm not complaining. There aren't enough of these moments in our days so if it happens in front of the camera so be it. I'm not pretending it's hugs and smiles every day, but it's so nice when it happens.

Leftover Skirt and Mystery Shirts

I had plans for something else to sew this week, but since the overlocker was set-up for the remnant "denim look rayon" that I made my Diplomat dress from I thought I'd go ahead and sew up the little Music Class skirt that I'd cut from the leftovers.

I LOVE this skirt pattern. there's something very elegant about the shape of it and it comes together really quickly and is delightful to sew. Yet, I have to confess it doesn't appeal much to the kiddo.

Me: "Hey A, did you see I made you a new skirt?"
A: "No mummy, Where is it?"
Me: "In your room, on the end of your bed"
A: "Oh" {runs off to bedroom}...
.....
A (from bedroom): "THAT'S NOT PINK!!!!!"

The other thing it's lacking in the winning over of small, ferocious, girl kids is any twirliness.
It's not just un-twirly but it's quite a slim fit. This is the third time I've made the skirt. The first (seen here) was one size up for her age but was still a real squeeze to get on. The sticking point was not hips or waist but getting the waistband past the combined width of her toddler thighs, and double thigh measurement isn't something I would have thought to take into account. The second skirt (seen here) was a gift for a friends kid and I've no idea whether it ever got worn or not. It was intended for wearing to the local LEGO convention but we couldn't go together in the end.

Forgive the unwashed markings I thought I'd do the pleats until I realised how this fabric would never hold a crease and chose the gathers instead.

 It would seem that it isn't such a great pattern after all, but hang the kids opinion, I LOVE this skirt. I want one for me and I will continue to make them even if only because they're fun to sew. Add in that you get the cutest ever blouse pattern  (one, two, three) and the Music Class pattern is an absolute must have in my opinion.

To go with my skirt I delved into the pile of cut out mystery things that I received in the post a while ago....

Way back in March the lovely Nicole of Five and Counting mentioned in the Oliver +S forum that she was going to have a clean out of her unfinished projects. I'd just been sewing a few Japanese patterns and thought it would be fun to try and assemble some cut out bits of fabric without knowing what the finished garment was meant to look like or having any instructions for how to get  there. So I put my hand up, and she mailed me a lovely big satchel full of curiosities...

And because she has twin daughters I got two of everything! To be honest, it took me a while to work that out. I muddled over a couple of piles of cut out bits wondering how a pair of pants could possibly have so many parts until I realised that she cuts in bulk and there could easily be two or more pairs of pants in that pile.

There are some cryptic clues on some packets suggesting that a zipper, short section of Velcro and 1" elastic required. As to what to do with each required notion it seems that's up to me to work out. If I ever get around to tackling some pants, referred to as Elephant Ears, I'm going to have to throw it open to you guys to help me work out how those suckers come together....
Some packets have sizes on them but others, like these shirts gave no clue....

These little shirts had a really curved side seam suggesting that the wearer would need to have a small bust. Since my daughter is as curvy as a housebrick I took some of the chest width out and just left the lower part to flare out.  The armholes had notches on them as if for attaching sleeves but no sleeves were present, just some bias strips. I was a bit too generous in attaching the bias strips together and would have only had enough for three armholes. Also I needed to do a bit of an armhole hack as the shape was all wrong if there was no sleeve attached. Having used up almost all the matching bias strip on the first shirt (which has been gifted to A's best-est friend) I used a bit of matching lawn for this one. I haven't had a chance to get this on it's intended wearer since finishing it and I'd hoped for a photo of the two girls in their matching shirts but A was much more interested in borrowing her friend's Iggle-Piggle dress up suit. (sigh)

Anyway, two free shirts and a skirt out of the leftovers of a $10 fabric remnant and I'm feeling pretty pleased with myself!

Can I buy a model please?

I've been sewing what I think is just about THE cutest outfit.....

....And I do have a pretty cute daughter. But do you think she'd team up with the outfit for the sake of some blogging pictures? Definitely NOT!!!! I'm starting to wonder if I should raffle off one garment a month on the blog as I can't stop making things and she can't stop saying no to me (sigh).

 First up was a wee pair of Size 2 Field Trip Cargo pants. I've made two pairs of these for P and when Oliver + S had a recent half price pattern sale of course I just had to have the smaller size for A.

The fabric is a designer stretch, cut corduroy that I found on sale at The Fabric Store. I bought a metre and a half each of this pale aqua and some pale pink.

It seemed a bit stiff at first and I almost got a great photo of the pants, during construction, standing up entirely by themselves waiting for the waistband to be ironed. As I sewed it softened a bit with handling and I think they'll be superb after a wash or two.

This time around I did all the topstitching with just a single thread of co-ordinating cotton so I saved myself all that re-threading.

The feel as you run your hand along them is divine, and while my daughter agrees they're lovely to pat she still wasn't putting them on for a photo.

So, here are some more pegged-up pants pictures...

 

And then, to go with my Cargo pants I had just enough Miller Miller flannel leftover from these pyjamas to make a little Music Class blouse. Bless the fabric stash fairy as those aqua dots perfectly match the pants.

This is definitely a multi-night garment for me. There's one evening's work just in those little pintucks and assembling the front and back panels. Another in the collar and preparing the sleeve plackets, and then 1 or 2 more, depending on how late I'm prepared to go, in setting the sleeves in, sewing the cuffs and then seven little buttonholes and buttons.

One thing I do save a bit of time with, is in not hand sewing the collar down before edgestitching it. I use 1/4" Heat'n'Bond quilters fusible web and just iron it together. Then there's no pins to sew over and everything remains nicely where it should be so the inner collar looks (almost) as neat as the outer.

The same trick works well on cuffs. I made this shirt once before in a flannel and I just love it. This time I remembered to sew the buttons on vertically. How professional of me that I know that kind of stuff now. :)

So there's my lovely outfit for A. hopefully I'll get some modelled photos another day.....

Here's teddy, putting in a cameo as Iron Man and photo-bombing the blog shoot (at P's insistence)!

It's the little things....

... that no-one will notice that can be oh, so satisfying.

Placket love with the Music Class blouse

KCW: Pants part three

Another pair of old maternity jeans cut up. Another pair of After School Pants.

This time I left off any fancy topstitching and just did a single thread edgestitch to get the seams to lay flat. But I did choose the frilly option of view B. Fourth time round for this pattern and I got a bit clever thinking I knew what I was doing. Of course I sewed a panel on the wrong way, couldn't work out why it was too long and almost trimmed the bottom off thinking I'd miscut the fabric. Thankfully I realised my mistake or they might have become shorts!

Using a worn pair of jeans meant that there's a bit of colour variation where the panels meet, but the denim is so nice and soft compared to the new, stiff stuff I touch and then don't buy in the big fabric store.

The patterned fabric is a Japanese lawn from Spotlight that I teamed with denim here as well.

I had thought I'd try for a fourth pair of pants this week, but with only one sewing night left in Kid's Clothes Week I'm not tempted to start something that I won't finish. I'm actually looking forward to packing up and having a night off from tomorrow.

So what to do tonight? I've heard it said that the Roller Skate dress is a trace, cut and sew in 1 night pattern, so I think I might try. I'm after a bit of instant gratification and it will tick one more of my unused patterns off the list.

I'm really looking forward to having a bit of time to look at everyone else's creations and catch up on some beautifully clothed and photographed kids on blogs out there.