Thursday 22 May 2014

Too narrow, too baggy, too raw, too.....

....fussy!
 
 
Remember this guy who couldn't buy himself a new hat?
Well I'm afraid that's me when it comes to sewing for myself.
Often, after someone had found out that I'd made what my kids were wearing I would then be asked if I sewed for myself. My glib answer was that no, I was too fussy, too shaped (compared to the plank like body of a small kid), it was all too difficult.
 
Slowly, with much inspiration from many, wonderful bloggers, the idea of sewing for myself started to seem more like a challenge and less like a waste of time.
 
 

Don't get me wrong, I'm not fishing for compliments, and I am enjoying the challenge, but it would seem I really am quite fussy. I also can't pretend that my previous wardrobe had me looking styled everyday. I'm sure there were some real misses in there but since none of it fits anymore I look back with rose coloured glasses.
 
Curiously, the one type of garment that so many people say not to bother sewing for yourself is knit tops. Why would you when you can buy them cheaply, there's so much variety in shops, you'll never get a decent hem or neckband etc etc.
 
I'm not buying any of that as I think the one field of me-sewing that I might be close to satisfying myself with is sewing knits. Not to mention that even if the top doesn't quite fit you can still wear your pride in not buying cheap, mass produced slave labour garments, and that does feel good.
 
 
 
This is the Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick free downloadable Tonic 2 long sleeved T-shirt pattern.
 
Loving: Great instructions. I didn't add any length and it's perfect (and I'm not the petite frame the patterns are designed for). With an overlocker it's quick, very professional looking and I am sinfully proud of my neckbands and hems. This was a 1 metre cut of a very cheap (you guessed it, $3/metre from that shop) thin knit. The 3/4 length sleeve modification was mostly due to a lack of fabric but also I am kind of addicted to this sleeve length. Did I mention the pattern is free?
 
Reconsidering: I think it's a bit narrow for me. I'm unsure whether I should cut the next one 1/4" off the fold or perhaps split the pattern vertically halfway between the neck and the sleeve and add a little width there.
 
Disliking: Putting together some PDF patterns. This pattern printed quite differently depending on which paper size I selected. The scaling was always correct but with letter (US standard) I was losing quite a bit at the paper edges. Printing with A4 settings was better but there was still some very vague overlapping edges. I was meant to have a black line around each page to overlap but it was so close to the edge of the paper my printer was leaving it off altogether. I'm fully prepared to accept this is my problem, but it bugs me.
The other thing that bugs me is this....
 
 
Nothing irritates me more in a knit top than the visible lumpy bra view from behind. I suspect the solution lies in a combination of a tiny bit more width in the pattern, losing a few kilos, using a thicker knit and probably buying some new underwear! Obviously being grouchy about it and slumping doesn't help but that's where I was at.
 
Revisiting?: Absolutely. I've purchased some gorgeous soft merino knits and I'm anticipating some very professional looking, hopefully well fitting, cosy, warm winter underlayers.
 
 
 
Loving: Much easier PDF to assemble. Those pockets! The on the knee length (I left it exactly as per pattern length). Linen (of course)
 
Reconsidering: The size. Why, oh why, didn't I listen! I don't think I've read a single account of this skirt that hasn't said to size down. In my defence I sort of thought I did. I measured myself twice and I fell between the size 12 and 14. I picked the 12 thinking that was sizing down, then realised that the size Large is marked 12-14 on the pattern. All that deliberating for no difference whatsoever. The elastic back means that it can be made to fit, but there's a bit too much gathered fabric back there, and the last thing I need is a bustle!
 
 
Disliking: Ironing obviously! :)
 
Revisiting?: Absolutely, in fact I've already made a size medium (yet to be blogged) in a heavy weight fabric as a winter skirt and I'm loving it.
 
Finally the Passport jacket



 
Loving: I'm struggling as my eye keeps being drawn to what I don't like... I do love soft, denim with a bit of stretch. I love that I made no muslin or adjustments whatsoever and managed to land those seams right on my bust. The pockets (while  mostly useless) are really cute. And yep, 3/4 length sleeves. Impractical as we head into winter but I love them!
 
Disliking: The weight of the neck ruffle (which isn't all that great) makes the neckline want to roll out, even with the understitching. That would be solved if the jacket were lined. That's right it's unlined. I had thought I'd be able to overlock the seam allowances and I had the machine all set up, but the tricky welt pockets made overlocking those seams impossible. The only way I could have finished the seam allowances with the overlocker would have been to do it before sewing anything together. So I zig zag finished the seam allowances and this is the abomination that is the inside of the jacket:
 
 
Admittedly, with a bit more dedication I could have bias bound all the seams, but with the pockets disappearing under the facing, and the exposed shoulder pads I still think it would look pretty ordinary. There's nothing to be said but that it needs lining. Sadly, I'm not inclined to wear it as I simply could not take it off without dying of shame!
 
Revisiting?: Not the jacket, but the ease of fitting it has convinced me I should make the dress the proper way in a woven fabric.
 
Phew. That all read like a long, grumpy, purging... You might have noticed I would appear to be really fussy about my face in photos too. Actually I'm not that fussy I'm just very good at closing my eyes or having some really weird expression on my face in any photo that is well posed or lit. Believe me I'm capable of some quite charming expressions when the flash fails to go off!
 
 
I forgot to mention... I'm nothing if not determined. I'll stick at it, it can only get better.



21 comments:

  1. I love all the clothes you made. I haven't sewn for myself (other than bags) since I became a mom. But I just happened to buy two patterns at Joann's yesterday. So maybe I'll make them next year because I usually have a pattern for a year before I make it.

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    1. So, like wine, a pattern should be cellared for a while, hey?! I like your way of thinking...

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  2. I find your sewing for yourself very inspiring! I really love everything you made. I have the jacket pattern but have yet to try it out, I will this fall now that I have seen yours.

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    1. Thanks Sharon. I think this jacket will really suit you. Make a muslin, know it will work and then you MUST line it! Then I think you'll have a great garment, and I know you have the patience for that kind of thing!

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  3. I am really fussy about my clothing too, and many of my me-mades are good, but not quite good enough ... But as time goes on and I learn more, I like my me-mades more and more. Also, I find that just mixing them into my wardrobe and wearing them a bit often helps me stop looking at the tiny flaws and start just appreciating having a nice thing to wear. I love all of your me-mades (but didn't I warn you about the skirt sizing? why yes I did!). I personally wear my me-made knit tops more than any other thing I've made - they are easy, comfortable, and look good - what's not to love? The jacket is my favorite here, but I hear you on the finishing!! That is annoying!

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    1. I'm glad I'm not the only fuss-pot. My 100% successes have been the knit Passport dresses and I'm wearing them all the time. I am appreciating having something new as it's been over 6 years now that my pre-kids wardrobe has been unworn. Any change is good right! I guess I was equally fussy about ready to wear clothes it's just that I used to have the time to browse and try things on. I'd rather wear an ill fitting me-made T-shirt than try and keep my kids amused in a change room. (actually they would be easily amused but it would be at my expense!)
      Taking the scolding about the skirt size without argument. :)
      If the jacket is your style then it would be worth the trouble of making it with a lining.

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  4. Determination is key! I am often frustrated by trying to get the right fit or style for myself but I know that every time I don't get it quite right I am learning something. It may be why I refuse to buy expensive fabric for myself. I know I will just be terrified of making a hash of it.
    The outfit really suits you (but you were warned about the skirt :-) )

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    1. I absolutely agree. I may not want to wear the end result but I will be pleased with the exercise in having made it. I'm so happy to say that my first Japanese blouse (the too small red one) is being happily worn by a friend and it looks fantastic on her. I feel quite proud when I see it on her!
      I'm with you on the cheap fabric thing too. At least until I've proved the pattern works for me, but by then I've become a bit bored (hence no Weekend Getaway take 3 yet) and moved on to something else....
      Yep, saw your blog post about the skirt size too, I honestly thought I was sizing down, a bit...

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  5. That's a lot of self sewing, good for you! I think it's such an attitude shift from kid sewing since it's probably not going to be right the first time- and that is super hard for me! Looks like your off to a great start.

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    1. Yep, I don't think I cope well with "not right first time" (I can visualise my parents nodding in agreement here). At leats with kids to sew for my not-quite-rights can always be chopped up and repurposed.

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  6. They all look great McStitch! I think you are being far too hard on yourself :)

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    1. Thank you, but I am being fussy. My test with sewing for me is not would I buy it for what it cost me to make, but would I buy it at all. I'd say confidently that no-one would walk out of a shop having paid money for a jacket that looked so dreadful on the inside as that one does. The good thing is I can see what the faults are, I think I know how to fix them and I may just get around to it, so long as I don't get distracted.....
      Oh, look, another pretty, new pattern, over there! ;)

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  7. Oh what a great outfit!! I know exactly what you mean though - I'm waaaay more critical about the fit and finish of my handsewns than storebought stuff. Like to the point where those tiny things that only I notice will cause me not to wear it anymore. Keep going though! It seems to get better with practice?

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    1. Thanks Kristin. It's the difference between off the rack and bespoke isn't it, only I'm no tailor with all that practice and skill!
      At least I'm excited about trying again, and I sure don't get excited about traipsing around store after store trying to find the perfect long sleeve T!

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  8. I'm in AWE of your sewing, but I understand the fussy factor. I've sewn a few things I'm less than happy with, or that have turned out not to look so great on me. And by the way, my skirt is even more bustly (bustle-ish?) than yours. I just try to forget about how it looks from behind... or when seen side-on...

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    1. Thanks goodness our skirts aren't too long, otherwise we'd be wearing them with mob caps and going really maid from under the stairs retro!
      Given that there's a total fabric outlay of about $20 in all three pieces above I can afford to be fussy and give up on them. Buying all those pieces and then changing my mind would have cost a lot more!

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  9. I give you so much credit for sewing for yourself. When I'm not pregnant I have the body of a plank and even so, it's very hard to sew for a plank. Patterns aren't written for my body type. All of the handmades I've made for myself looked just that - handmade. Except for one knit skirt that I wore once a week (at least) for several years but that was sheer luck. All three pieces look fantastic on you. Very professional and the fabrics and colors you chose are great. Also, I appreciate your thorough (and honest) reviews. If I ever do sew for myself, I will definitely take a look at these. beautifully done!

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    1. Perhaps all the sewing patterns are made for people who can't buy couture off the rack and have the clothes fit, hence there aren't patterns for planks. I'm trying to feel sorry for you, ... really I am... :)
      But seriously, as much I'd love to have your figure, walk into Paul Smith and have those slim trousers fit me, my budget wouldn't stretch to more than one pair every 5 years so it wouldn't really work out anyway. Here's some inspiration: Have you seen the SBCC trousers that Nicole has sewn herself? http://www.nicoleathome.com/2014/05/sbcc-manhattan-trouser-pattern-review.html?showComment=1399461668505

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  10. All looks fab. Especially love the jacket. I am a complete fuss pot too and really can't be arsed rectifying issues once I've finished or even when I'm not finished.

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    1. Can't be arsed, exactly my thoughts!
      If I make another jacket that is lined, then this one will only be fit for the bin by comparison. Best just to move gaily on to the next thing, right?!

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  11. Downloading those tees now :) Funny enough, I am struggling to find decent tees at shops. Something that fits everywhere, not see-through and at least half-decent quality!

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