Tuesday 6 January 2015

Thread Theory love: Newcastle cardigan and Camas blouse muslin

I hadn't planned on showing you my Camas blouse* until I'd made a second one with some fit changes, but, truth is, I've been wearing it heaps and it's a great pattern, and Thread Theory are having a sale, so how could I not share?! Click on the picture link below to shop the thread Theory website and take advantage of their sale.


The blouse is a knit shirt with the option of functional or faux button placket, and with shoulder and back yokes that can be the same or a contrast fabric.

I had some small pieces of Liberty lawn, and there was exactly enough (from a fat 1/8th) to make the yokes and I had some T-shirt cotton that was lying around. Perfect for a test run....


I made a straight size 14, and with the thicker t-shirt cotton and the size I feel it's a bit boxy. For my final draft I've picked a slinkier viscose jersey, sized down one size and added a bit of length through the waist. I'm super excited about how it will turn out!
 

I don't have much in the way of a bust, and certainly can't boast a cleavage as such, so I was nervous about the low front, but it sits at exactly the right spot. Low cut, but not indecent, and, as the next photo shows, it get's the photographer husband tick of approval :)


I happened to have just the right number of grey linen covered buttons leftover from this shirt turned dress and they're not a bad match.

The pattern was a delight to sew, and I have the next one cut out and ready to go. Stay tuned...

Now,... Do you remember the Newcastle cardigan that I made for my dad, and Roger stole the show with his turn at modelling? Well, he asked nicely enough for one of his own in the same fabric, so that was his Christmas present sorted. He requested pockets and red lining. I almost fulfilled his wishes...


My dad had given me feedback that the lining, while soft and pleasant was too catchy to wear the cardigan over long sleeves. His had been lined with a cotton jersey. It seemed I needed proper slippery lining, but also needed to retain the stretch.

If you're wondering why I'm talking lining for a cardigan which is normally unlined (by the pattern instructions) then I should explain: the faux quilted main fabric has an awful black, scratchy interfacing type reverse side. It needed something behind it.

I asked around and discovered stretch woven lining. It feels just like normal lining but has enough lycra to have some reasonable stretch in one direction. Perfect. Only problem was I couldn't find any colours in bricks and mortar shops around town (I'd left it too late for buying the perfect red off the 'net).


Eventually I found this pewter grey which I thought was ideal, and snuck in the red by using some quilting cotton from the stash for bias binding on the facing edge and for a label background. I guess that's one reason for hanging onto some bits of quilting cotton right there.


Adding a lining is quite simple. I had thought to take pictures and turn it into a tutorial but this was sewn during some very late nights leading up to Christmas, and if I'm sewing until 2am for a few days straight, I ain't taking photos as I go!

I cut the front, back and sleeves from lining. After sewing the shoulder seams of the lining I added it at the point where the front button plackets are attached. Then it's just a matter of attaching all four sleeves, before sewing all four side seams, being conscious of keeping everything from getting twisted up. While it adds a bit of sewing it does save on finishing any seams and I think I'd do this every time now.

The pockets were inspired by these ones that Meredith of Thread Theory did when she made a Newcastle cardigan for herself. Only I decided mine should have a curved turned down bit that echoed the shape of the shawl collar. Then I thought they should be lined, and then that they should be fussy cut to match the pattern of the jacket. Somehow these all seemed like rational thoughts when I was self drafting a pocket after midnight on a weeknight!


I was very excited when I bought more of the main buttons to discover a smaller version that was just right for the pockets.


This cardigan had the same extra length in the body and the GWA (Grandpa Waist Adjustment) of my first one, but this time I got the recalculation of the button spacing right, so it has the correct number of buttons down the front.

The finished cardigan was wrapped and left under the tree at my parents house for Roger who was visiting after we'd left. Of course I left instructions about photographing it, but forgot to say I'd already taken some on the hanger shots.

He artfully composed some suitably rustic shots by the back door...


But then all his modelled shots failed to work with the exception of this "side elevation" of the model preparing himself:
 
 
As we're now experiencing rolling summer heatwaves we're all going to have to wait until fireside, port drinking weather comes back around and I can coax Roger into another blog appearance.
 
* I was given the Camas blouse pattern in exchange for some publicity. I'm sure you know my enthusiasm for Thread Theory patterns is entirely genuine and that I can't be bought!


30 comments:

  1. Oh I love the red details and the fabric, I have never seen such nice knit sweater fabric. The whole thing looks great!

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    1. Thanks Miranda, the knit fabric was a great find, and while I bought the last off the roll the first time I was happy to find it restocked when I went to make another. I'm quite tempted to make one for myself!

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  2. Do bring Roger back for another modelling appearance :)

    Oh, and your test run Camas blouse looks good. Liberty scraps and grey linen buttons a nice detail.

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    1. Don't worry Deb, it has to happen! But we're certainly not in cardigan wearing weather right now. You can see how harsh the light is in that last picture!
      The next Camas is going to be plain, but I think that will make it even more special somehow (and more versatile to wear)

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  3. The blouse is lovely, and that cardigan looks super-professional. Lucky Roger! And oh yes, it's most definitely NOT cardigan weather... but maybe if you bribed him with an icy pole?

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    1. Thanks marisa. I'm really happy with the cardigan. Fussy cut pockets may not be noticed by others but it mattered to me! Maybe the cardigan modelled with speedos by the beach you think?!

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  4. Beautifully sewn.
    I really appreciate your eye for the details

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    1. Well that's high praise indeed and it means an awful lot coming from you! Thank you.

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  5. So much to say about this post...This blouse is the perfect use of Liberty scraps, lovely even for a muslin! Very informative boob shot, i'm often reluctant to start a woven top because you just never know how it will fit. Tips like that are so important. Last but not least, I love that you are sewing for the adult men in your life. I love that cardi and am tempted to try one for myself.

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    1. Ha ha. I'm glad you appreciate the down-shirting photo (is that the opposite of up-skirting?). Practical, if not technically knowledgeable, fitting issues covered here!
      I think I could wear the Newcastle cardigan too. I really liked the green one that Meredith sewed for herself that I linked to in the blog post.

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  6. Love your Camas blouse! Great idea to use a special piece of fabric for the yokes...

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    1. Thanks Meg, and as soon as I saw yours I thought YES, of course, a contrast placket as well. I can see myself wanting to make more of these. _ apologies for being behind in commenting but I did love your blouse it's very flattering on you./

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  7. Roger does a fantastic job of modelling, he deserves his cardigan!
    I really like that blouse on you, it is dressy without being too much. It looks great with jeans.

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    1. He is fun!
      I was looking for a bronzy metallic knit for a new year's version of the Camas blouse but didn't find the fabric I was after. And then I saw a beautiful one with sequined sections on the yokes. It can certainly be dressy or casual.

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  8. I love the blouse but I think I love the cardi gan even more: I mean it looks SO professional! it is stunning: that farbic and the lilning, all the details: perfection , really! and alos I discovered this patterns for men thanks to you!

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    1. Thank you Sophie! I'm glad to have introduced you to Thread Theory. I've found them to be very well written, perfectly drafted and beautifully presented patterns. The kind I'll buy to collect even if I don't get around to sewing them (did I just confess to doing that?)

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  9. These are both great! That cardigan is freaking fantastic, and the blouse is definitely a style and fabric that I would wear frequently. I think it will be amazing in a flowier/drapier knit.

    But. Talk to me. Buttonholes in knits? Did you cuss a lot? That's what happens when I try to put buttonholes in knit fabric ... My feed dogs just grab and devour the fabric.

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    1. This blouse would be perfect for you! The good news is that unless you have a freakishly large head I can't imagine you'd ever need the buttons to be functional, so buttonholes be damned, you could go without.
      As to what I do. Well nothing different to be honest. Interfacing of course, and I'm already using a ball point or jersey needle but then I just do the exact same buttonhole that I always do. My basic Janome has a 4 step manual buttonhole which I have found never fails, Thick, thin, near edges, whatever, it just works (except when I've sewed over so many pins it needs a major service, not that I do that of course...)
      As much as I'd love a new, fancy sewing machine I'm nervous about automatic one step buttonhole machines as I always hear about them being so finicky.
      We'll see how I go with the slinkier jersey. I mostly don't even bother with a practice buttonhole on scraps, just dive in. But with a drapey knit I'll make an exception and do a test run or two first.

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  10. I love the blouse...and after seeing yours I couldn't resist buying the pattern. Hooray for sales! The cardigan is pretty fantastic too.;)

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    1. Well that is flattering! I look forward to seeing yours!

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  11. Your Camas blouse looks very pretty and the Liberty adds a special touch. Oh you a have done it again with Roger's cardigan, and those pockets are a treat.

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    1. Thank you Sharon, very kind of you to say so! :)

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  12. I love your blog! Bikes and sewing are best. My own camas blouse is cut and ready to stitch. I made a few alterations so I will have to see how it comes out. :)

    Great work! I love the Newcastle too!

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    1. Thank you! I'm sure you'll enjoy sewing the Camas blouse. Thanks for stopping by the blog and leaving so many nice comments!

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  13. Both are very nice, but I absolutely love that cardigan. Such great hidden details.

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    1. Thanks Brittney. It's kind of necessary to go that little bit further when you sew a gift for someone else, isn't it?!

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  14. you are so super clever - all that tricky figuring-out of how to line the cardigan! It looks wonderful and I love the pop of red! Also, beautiful top - must be comfy to wear in a knit!

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    1. Thanks Lucinda, but this is the cheats way really. I tried once to shape a lining to attach to the facing so everything was contained. I got there, but it's much easier to slip the lining under the facing like this. Plus, it gave me the excuse to finish the facing with the red bias!
      The Camas blouse is very easy to wear, but just that bit fancier than a T-shirt.

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  15. That blouse is great and I think with your tweaks the next one will be perfect! So charmed by your newcastle cardigans too, you've picked a tough demographic to sew for and you're nailing it!

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    1. Oh I hope it will be perfect, in my head it is, but that's always dangerous isn't it?!
      Nomination for the best blog for "sewing for men of a certain age that you may or may not be related to" hey?. If only there was such a category, I could make one of these for every uncle and friend of the family. It's such a nice pattern to sew. And if only Flipper liked it (sigh)

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